Huntsman’s Creative Director Campbell Carey was seduced by the theatre of a silk cloud being unravelled in an atelier in Tango, Japan. But that is only part of the story of how our new tie collection was curated…. Huntsman’s mission was to produce a tie collection across seven styles that suit our clients for an arc of occasions, a tie capsule wardrobe designed for clients that will transcend from generation to generation. The biggest tie collection made-to-date consists of over ties/">185 designs that form a cohesive crest in the Huntsman legacy. The newly launched collection illustrates Huntsman’s appetite for reviving classic styles and imbuing a touch of contemporary design.
To celebrate our centenary on Savile Row, we looked through each of our archives that chronicle our collections, dating back to 1919. Delving deep into the Huntsman vaults, we blew the dust off historic designs and uncovered an iconic signature basket-weave motif which caught our attention. Synonymous with club ties, a subtle design with intricate detail repeated. The Huntsman signature house colour palette was adhered to, compatible with our bespoke and ready-to-wear collections. Each tie features our house logo which has been hand stitched into the tipping, a finesse that will be appreciated for years to come.tie/">tie/">Exceptional quality underpins everything we do at Huntsman, which is why we sought to work with specialist suppliers, rich in culture, with a fastidious approach to applying traditional techniques to produce something extraordinary. The theatre that takes place behind the scenes in our supplier’s workshops can be appreciated in the look and feel of the product. Campbell Carey, pondered the provincial map, finally landing in Tango, Japan- which is celebrated for its rich history of weaving fine silks and has been doing so for over 300 years. Huntsman’s kimono ties are produced in a range of blue hues, aptly inspired by their woven location, the Sea of Japan.tie/">We also looked to the artisans of Europe, selecting an atelier in Germany to produce our new knitted ties, using state of the art machinery and drew design inspiration from traditional folding techniques. We believe that ties are the pinnacle of any suit. Our emphasis for perfecting the collection lies within a larger framework, joining the dots between our suiting and accessory collections. The rise in ties becoming a prominent line in our collection winks at the evolution of our client’s appetite for a top-to-toe service that we are delighted to provide. Although principally the ties were created to complement Huntsman house-style suits, they are also the natural choice for gifting. Grant a loved one or dear friend with a special gift with a discernible difference. A gift that transcends the owner, lending itself to generations to come. You can shop our full collection ties/">online or in-store at 11 Savile Row
Over the course of 2018, Huntsman will release monthly style guides in conjunction with Country Life, detailing the proper way to dress; from lapels on a dinner jacket, to the sleeves on an overcoat, from the essential components of a shooting outfit, to whether a business suit should be double or single breasted - Huntsman's experts will impart their sartorial knowledge, in the ultimate guide on what to wear.
Read more about the video series here.
Brace tops, without turn-ups, and the seam finish on the trousers should always be in the same silk used on the lapels.
A special commission by Pierre Lagrange, owner of Huntsman, this driving suit is a truly unique piece. Created especially for Burning Man Festival in Nevada, this suit is constructed of Irish Linen to ensure maximum comfort and coolness in the heat. To achieve the tie dye effect, the driving suit was hand dyed in a bath by a Huntsman tailor. Although tie dying garments is not a process the Huntsman team regularly use, we were incredibly happy to take on the challenge and in turn were very happy with the result.
It was an instagram post, which first captured the imagination of Huntsman owner Pierre Lagrange.Though he personally knew the Aboah family, he was formally, or informally, introduced to Kesewa’s work through the medium of social media, images of her work which fired his imagination. On invitation to Huntsman, it was clear how unique and fitting Keswa’s artistic genius was. With no formal training her eye for stitching and interpreting patterns in her artwork was remarkable. Pierre commissioned artist Kesewa Aboah to create a canvas work of art, based on her paper based stitching piece. Her finished work, “The Joy in Dancing With My Sisters”
This was then given over to the expertise of Huntsman Co-Head Cutter Dario Carnera to create a truly one-off bespoke jacket which incorporated the canvas. The jacket is testament to the ingenuity and skill of Huntsman tailor Chris Bull, who with meticulous patience then re-constructed artwork as a coat.
Founded in 1849, the first Huntsman shop was established at No. 126 New Bond Street when our founder Henry Huntsman purchased a “Gaiter and Breeches Maker” formed forty years prior in 1809. Our founder Henry Huntsman was (as the name suggests) was a keen sportsman and when the house was founded, Huntsman quickly gained a reputation as London’s premier sporting and shooting tailors’.
As a bespoke tailors which incorporated an equestrian wear workshop, the house quickly gained a reputation for dressing the hunting and riding aristocracy of Europe for much of the nineteenth century, a specialism which became the very foundations of the house. Huntsman continues to make equestrian and sporting tailoring today.
In 1886, the company earned its first Royal Warrant as Leather Breeches Maker to HRH the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). This was swiftly followed by that of Queen Victoria’s second son HRH Prince Albert, Duke of Saxe Coburg Gotha in 1876 and Queen Victoria herself in 1888. The company had by this point established itself as the premier destination for riding and country attire, a reputation which was retained throughout the twentieth century
Today, we take great pride in our heritage. Huntsman’s sporting customers have ranged from George V and Clarke Gable – those Huntsman safari suits in Mogambo – to Eric Clapton and the Earl of Cawdor. Our famous stags’ heads were left by a customer who came in to fit his shooting suit in 1926.
Here we have and Henry Huntsman’s very own breeches.
As part of the McQueen collaboration Huntsman created this spectacular hand embroidered frock coat for music legend David Bowie.
The coat is instantly recognisable as McQueen, with the intricate detailing you come to expect with bespoke.
McQueen worked closely with Terry Haste, Huntman's MD during the period, who cut his tailoring teeth with fashion favourite Tommy Nutter in the Sixties and so was well versed in dressing the likes of the Rolling Stones, Terence Stamp and David Bowie.
#BeTheHuntsman: A Styling Session with Tiziano Mazzilli
As part of our centenary celebrations we looked into our archives and discovered that the legendary Founder, Head-Designer and Creative Director of the iconic VOYAGE brand, Tiziano Mazzilli had commissioned his own amazing pieces from Huntsman.
We invited him to 11 Savile Row to showcase some of these bespoke garments in his own style.
His own avant-guard, often outrageous and always iconic style may seem at odds with the formality of Savile Row tailoring, however, Huntsman; contemporary since 1849, created garments which reflect his own aesthetic, with the appreciation of the quality and craftsmanship of a bespoke commission.
This kind of style comes naturally to Tiziano. For the shoot, he pairs velvet coats with leather pants, leather ties with vintage t-shirts. Strikingly wide lapels and a pallet of crimson, black and white are incorporated into every look. Tiziano plays with regimental-style, another nod to Huntsman’s history as a military tailor.
This artisan revels in the process of putting together each look, his appreciation for craftsmanship reflected in his collection of vintage pieces, indeed every garment has a story of origin behind it. Musing on the shoot, Tiziano says “True elegance for me is a manifestation of an independent mind.” and we believe that couldn’t be truer of Bespoke tailoring, every commission is made specifically for you and to your requirements.
Of course, Tiziano isn’t the only designer to favour Huntsman as tailor of choice. He sits amongst the likes of fashion trailblazers such as Coco Chanel, Hardy Amies, Alexander McQueen, Bill Blass, Hubert de Givenchy, and Marc Jacobs.
If you’re inspired by Tiziano’s style, or indeed have your bespoke vision, chat to us now and make an appointment.
It was an instagram post, which first captured the imagination of Huntsman owner Pierre Lagrange. Though he personally knew the Aboah family, he was formally, or informally, introduced to Kesewa’s work through the medium of social media, images of her work which fired his imagination.
On invitation to Huntsman, it was clear how unique and fitting Kesewa’s artistic talent was. With no formal training her eye for stitching and interpreting pattern in her artwork was remarkable.
Pierre commissioned artist Kesewa Aboah to create a canvas work of art, based on her paper based stitching piece. Her finished work, “The Joy in Dancing With My Sisters”was then given over to the expertise of Huntsman Co-Head Cutter Dario Carnera to create a truly one-off bespoke jacket which incorporated the canvas.
“The Joy in Dancing With My Sisters” Calico, Orange Pigment & Coconut Oil, Cotton Thread 130 x 196cm 2019
To ensure the integrity of the piece wasn’t compromised in construction of the jacket, the base of the garment is yellow linen, chosen to compliment Kesewa’s palette. The artwork had to then be carefully deconstructed before being reinstated on the garment.
The jacket is testament to the ingenuity and skill of Huntsman tailor Chris Bull, whom with meticulous patience then re-constructed the artwork as the coat was made.
Kesewa’s extraordinary piece incorporate extraordinarily intricate stitching work, yet the artist has no formal sewing training and is the perfect example of how art and fashion can marry to create something truly unique.
Kesewa’s extraordinary piece incorporates extraordinarily intricate stitching work, yet the artist has no formal sewing training and is the perfect example of how art and fashion can marry to create something truly unique.
The garment caused a sensation when Pierre wore it at his wedding in July 2019, and we thought it the perfect piece to celebrate the art exercised our craftsmen as London celebrates the art world during Frieze week. Championing the skill of our cutters and tailors and Kesewa’s remarkable talent, the jacket takes pride of place in our window at 11 Savile Row.
As part of the installation, Pierre commissioned another piece by Kesewa to be framed in the window. The work titled ‘All The Women And Me’ is a composition in deep russets and reds and beautifully contrasts the vibrancy of the bespoke coat.
Influenced by people, places and life events, a strong personal narrative runs through all of Kesewa’s work, with the use of colour being paramount to her self expression. Using her body as a tool to manipulate her canvas, she creates abstractions of her own form onto which she embroiders. Each commission takes on average over a month to complete.
With this level of bespoke, anything is possible! What would you have commissioned?
Make sure you stop by to see it for yourself from the 3rd - 7th of October.
Of course, one of the joys of bespoke tailoring is the relationship you share with your tailor; you trust him to cut your suits and separates, so why not trust him to make you some beautiful shirts? After all, our cutters understand your figure like nobody else. Adding a handful of measures to those we already take for your coats, assisted by expert shirt cutters, our team is on-hand to create bespoke shirts with the perfect fit and finish.
As always, our shirts are made to the very highest standard, and by visiting Huntsman for both your tailoring and your shirts, clients will save precious time by reducing the number of visits and fittings required.
Shirtmaking is an important part of Huntsman’s story. We offered bespoke shirts cut in-house for most of the twentieth century, but the service was interrupted some 20 years ago
when our last resident shirt cutter retired. Now, we’re restoring the service to its former glory, and its rightful home.
Some of our seasoned patrons may remember Huntsman bespoke shirting advertisements from decades past, or perhaps still have an original bespoke shirt hanging in their wardrobe, like our famous customer, Gregory Peck, who had all his shirts made by Huntsman or Sulka (where some of our specialist shirt-cutters used to work). In fact, one long-standing client shared some of his Huntsman bespoke shirts with us recently for a trip down memory lane, with some surprising labels to enjoy…
It goes without saying that the style and fit of a bespoke shirt is essential to looking elegant and feeling comfortable. This new service allows you to draw upon your trusted relationship with your cutter, who knows precisely what colours, patterns and style of shirt will suit you.
Moreover, we have rigorously tested our new bespoke shirting process for over a year to create an experience that reflects the same standard of execution you would expect of your
suiting. The cutter’s art requires exacting skill; to accurately interpret your measurements to create the perfect pattern relies on a talented craftsman’s hand and eye. Thanks to close collaboration between your Huntsman cutter and our specialist shirt cutters, who draft the pattern and cut the garment together, you can be sure of a shirt that fits like a glove.
Inspired by our iconic one-button house silhouette, Creative Director Campbell Carey has even designed a range of bespoke shirt collars and cuffs to complement our tailoring – to ensure that the proportions of your shirt will sit harmoniously with a Huntsman suit or sports coat.
To make the best bespoke shirts, Huntsman has partnered with Alumo, manufacturer of the finest Swiss cotton shirting cloth, to offer a comprehensive collection of fabric style and weight. Huntsman’s bespoke team has an extensive knowledge of our shirting fabric collection – which numbers many hundreds of luxury cloths – and can offer advice on which
weight, composition and style of fabric is best suited to your body, or the purpose of the shirt.
Choose from classic poplins for business shirts that feel cool and comfortable next to the skin every day, to refined lightweight voile for summer travel and sumptuous ashmerello blends to keep you looking spick and span during the cooler months.
Speak to us now online to book a bespoke shirting appointment, or visit us in store at either No.11 Savile Row, W57th St. New York, or during our international trunk shows.
This Father’s Day, give something special back to dad
For the man that gives so much, Father’s Day, Sunday 16th June, is the perfect opportunity to give something back, in gesture at least, with a gift from Huntsman.
The relationship we have with fathers is one so special, Huntsman feels privileged to have a role of confidante in the relationship between fathers and their daughters and sons, dressing dynasties since Henry Huntsman and Sons opened doors in 1849.
Huntsman offers an extensive selection of accessories and to help you pick something special for dad, we asked some of the fathers and sons at Huntsman to give us their favourite picks; gift ideas they'd love to give and receive!
and let Huntsman help you celebrate your Father on June 16th.