The Huntsman Style Guide
Evening Wear
When the invite reads ‘black-tie’ there’s no excuse not to look your best, and our time-tested mantra is to keep it simple. From the unimpeachable elegance of the classic black barathea tuxedo to its cool contemporary midnight blue counterpart, and of course decadent velvet smoking jackets, there’s a plethora of ways in which you can ‘cut a dash’, and punctuate your formal wear wardrobe with timelessly tasteful choices.
Once you have an established foundation for your evening wear wardrobe, your creativity can flourish. The Huntsman team is well versed in all manner of elegant options, offering ideas to bring panache and punch to your party wear.
The Tuxedo
Traditional jackets will feature either peak, shawl or notch lapels. Lapels should be silk and colour-matched to the jacket, with covered buttons. Black is the timeless choice, while midnight blue offers a subtle contemporary alternative. Trousers should have brace tops, no turn-ups, and silk braid seams matching the lapels.
The Dinner Jacket
A dinner jacket is traditionally worn with complimenting, rather than matching, trousers. As the centrepiece of the ensemble, more luxurious cloths are always a nice touch, velvet, a richly patterned weave such as Black Watch tartan, or, in warmer climates, a white jacket paired with black trousers for the quintessential “007” look. (An all-white ensemble, however, is best avoided.)
Distinguished by either a peak or shawl lapel, the dinner jacket embodies a heightened sense of formality, bringing refinement and distinction to evening attire.
The Smoking Jacket
A smoking jacket is a traditional style of evening wear, entirely suited to formal dinners and black-tie occasions. For the purist, convention dictates it be reserved for the home, yet its enduring elegance has long transcended those confines.
Traditionally cut in velvet, fastenings may feature a frog closure, while buttons provide a refined, contemporary interpretation. Most often designed with a shawl lapel, modern variations occasionally favour a peak lapel for a sharper silhouette. Distinctive frogging, braided detailing that traces the lapels and fastening, remains a defining hallmark of this iconic garment.
Shirt & Bow Tie
Your shirt should be white Marcella cotton with double cuffs, distinguished by its piqué weave detailing across the front panel.
Pair it with a classic black bow tie, self-tied for authentic charm and recognisability. Once mastered, tying a bow tie is a surprisingly useful skill and adds personality to your outfit.
Finishing Touches
Keep accessories understated and refined. Cufflinks, dress studs, and a watch should complement the ensemble without distraction, silver, gold, or mother-of-pearl are the only choices required. A crisp white pocket square provides the perfect finishing touch. For added formality, opt for silk moiré braces, a cummerbund is always welcome with a single breasted jacket.
For footwear, black patent leather Oxfords are the classic choice. For slightly relaxed dress codes, black patent loafers or opera pumps are also appropriate. Always ensure shoes are polished and in excellent condition.
