The Huntsman Style Guide

Evening Wear

Evening dress is among the most considered expressions of a gentleman's wardrobe, and the most rewarding to perfect. From the unimpeachable authority of the black barathea tuxedo to the quiet distinction of midnight blue, and the enduring drama of a velvet smoking jacket, evening wear rewards those who approach it with both confidence and restraint.

 

The Tuxedo

The tuxedo jacket features either peak, shawl or notch lapels, each in silk, colour-matched to the cloth, with covered buttons. Black remains the timeless choice; midnight blue offers a quietly distinguished alternative. Trousers should carry brace tops, no turn-ups, and silk braid seams to match the lapels.

The Dinner Jacket

A dinner jacket is worn with complementing, rather than matching, trousers. As the centrepiece of the ensemble, more luxurious cloths reward the occasion, velvet, a richly patterned weave such as Black Watch tartan, or, in warmer climates, a white jacket with black trousers. An all-white ensemble is best avoided.

Distinguished by either a peak or shawl lapel, the dinner jacket embodies a heightened sense of formality,  and a particular freedom. Unlike the tuxedo, it invites the cloth, the colour and the construction to speak.

The Smoking Jacket

The smoking jacket is the most personal expression of evening dress, rooted in the private world of the gentleman's home, yet long since elevated to the most distinguished of public occasions. For the purist, convention still reserves it for after dinner; in practice, its enduring elegance makes it one of the most admired choices in any room.

Traditionally cut in velvet, the smoking jacket may fasten with a frog closure or, in more contemporary interpretations, covered buttons. Most often designed with a shawl lapel, though modern variations occasionally favour the sharper line of a peak.Frogging and braided detailing along the lapels remain its defining hallmarks, details that announce the garment before a word is spoken.

The Dinner Shirt

A dinner shirt should be white Marcella cotton with double cuffs, distinguished by its piqué weave detailing across the front panel.

Finishing Touches

A bow tie is an essential component of evening dress, always worn, and always self-tied, with the cloth and colour chosen to complement your jacket.

Cufflinks, dress studs and a watch should complement the ensemble without distraction; silver, gold or mother-of-pearl are the only choices required.

A crisp white pocket square, folded flat or to a single point, completes the shirt. For added formality, silk moiré braces in black, or a cummerbund - which are always welcome with a single breasted jacket.

For footwear, black patent leather Oxfords are the classic choice. For slightly relaxed dress codes, black patent loafers or opera pumps are also appropriate. Always ensure shoes are polished and in excellent condition.