As a coat maker, what is the most necessary part of your day?

I always need to get a cup of coffee in order to start off my day!

What do you think are the components of a really great jacket?

For me, a great jacket is all determined by how it fits you to how it makes you feel. That feeling you get when you put on a bespoke jacket, where the fit is perfectly crafted to you and your dimensions is one that you won’t be able to get from any other type of garment. I also feel that a great jacket must be timeless to be enjoyed for years and still feel relevant.

When are you most inspired?

I am most inspired when I have an interesting project at hand. I also feel very inspired by the cloth I’ll be working with as each cloth has to be approached in different ways. 

What’s the most exciting thing you are working on?

At the moment I am working on a purple wedding suit which is a bit more unconventional but an exciting and inspiring cloth to be working with.   

Having originally trained as an apprentice with Huntsman, what has changed most since you were last here?

Since coming back to Huntsman, it’s beautiful to see the diversity and inclusivity in the staff. Huntsman has adapted with the times and it is wonderful to see and be a part of such a progressive workforce committed to nurturing future tailors. 

What is your favourite garment?   

One of my favourite garments has to be a double-breasted dinner jacket as it is a timeless and sophisticated piece. 

What is your favourite cloth to work with?

Flannel cloth is one of the best to work with, the way it can be handled is easier than other cloths and can create more effortlessly beautiful garments.

Why are apprenticeships important in bespoke tailoring?

Apprenticeships are vital in bespoke tailoring as it is a way to ensure that the craft will continue and be passed on. Without these apprenticeships, the beauty of bespoke tailoring would die out altogether.  

What inspired you to become a tailor?

My first inspiration to go into tailoring was not being able to find my size in fast fashion shops, as well as liking clothes I couldn’t afford, so I came to conclude that I had to learn to make them myself.

Can you share a standout moment in your career so far?

My most significant achievement by far is being part of the costume team for the latest Wes Anderson film (The Phoenician Scheme) in the Babelsberg Film Studio in Germany. It was very enriching and stressful, and it made me more confident about my skills. And I got to see my name in the closing credits.

How would you describe your approach to bespoke tailoring?

I’d say “I’m here to do my job well, not cure cancer” is my approach. It helps me stay sane and focus on my work regardless of any unnecessary drama that comes and goes.

What has been your most memorable commision?

It wasn’t precisely a commission. Still, when I was about 23, back in college (specifically at Newham College, where I took my bespoke tailoring course), I made a pleated wrap skirt in silk taffeta with a petticoat underneath for extra volume as a birthday gift for a friend. It was my first project of this kind, which was both educational and frustrating, but I ultimately succeeded. The pleats were secured with tape on the inside to keep them in place, and the hem was approximately 9 meters long, which I hand-finished.

What inspired you to become a tailor?

I started in the trade because my uncle was a tailor. I was inspired by the ability to transform a material fabric into something elegant. My experience began at age 11.

Can you share a standout moment in your career so far?

I have been in the industry for 48 years. Due to this long experience, I am happy to say that tailors contact me for help. There is no specific moment; however, I mostly solve problems when my team comes for help.

How would you describe your approach to bespoke tailoring?

I am very detailed, so as soon as I see the job, I can tell exactly what needs to be done.

What has been your most memorable commission?

I do all the work to the highest standard. I love my job as a tailor; all my tailoring jobs are special.

What inspired you to become a tailor?

My friend introduced me to the trade; my grandfather used to own a carpentry factory, and my father was qualified as a national master mechanic in the army. I may have inherited some of their genes!

Can you share a standout moment in your career so far?

I have finished lots of the suits for the Royal Family, Prime Ministers and well-known celebrities such as Michael Jackson, Robbie Williams and Simon Cowell.

How would you describe your approach to bespoke tailoring?

I take my work very seriously. I put my seriousness into every stitch and thread. I hope every client will be satisfied with the suit that is tailor-made just for them!

What has been your most memorable commission?

My most memorable and meaningful commission was back more than 10 years ago. There was an urgent special jacket that needed to be completed and displayed in the window at Harrods on the same day because the BBC wanted to record a programme. The sewing of the jacket had to be able to install a hidden camera; it was difficult, but in the end, I completed it. It was a special job to share with my colleagues, and it felt great!

What inspired you to become a tailor?

I came from a previous career that wasn’t inspiring (Pharmaceuticals), so I started to do evening courses to find out what I liked. Anything random and interesting I did. After doing a clothes-making one, the teacher directed me to a tailoring school in East London. I went to the open day, saw a few deconstructed garments explained and was strangely sold then. But to be sure, I also went around to any tailor I could find to enquire and pick up tips. The rest is history.

Can you share a standout moment in your career so far?

Last year, I was nominated for and won the “Apprentice of the Year” award from the Livery Company.

How would you describe your approach to bespoke tailoring?

Before getting my opportunity here at Huntsman, I interned and worked at a few tailors that weren’t the greatest at teaching. I therefore learn in my own way, really. I also did a few relevant courses and incorporated whatever I’d learned wherever I worked. Being left to my own devices made me pick up many a bad habit, and so I’d say my approach now is just to trust the process, listen to my mentor (Mr David Hayes), and work as hard as I can. 

What has been your most memorable commision?

I had to do a coat baste for a potential employee as part of his interview/ selection process. The person had to cut the coat based on the head cutter's measurements and figuration, and I was given the bundle. It was special to me as I was deemed trustworthy and skilled enough to help in the process.

What inspired you to become a tailor?

It’s the opportunity to create something beautiful with my hand.

How long does it take to complete an apprenticeship in tailoring?

An apprenticeship can last between 3-5 years, but honestly even once you finish your apprenticeship, you continue learning new skills all the time. You can come across different challenges when encountering different types of cloth even after finishing your apprenticeship, so no matter what you always keep learning.

What has been the most important thing you’ve learnt so far?

The most important thing I’ve learnt is to work efficiently and methodically so as to not lose track of my process. Being methodical helps with repeating the same steps; if you do it right once, then you’ll always do it right.

What are you currently working on? 

Currently,  I am working on 2 two-piece suits for a father and son. It’s been a great project as I have David’s guidance and I am able to have a thorough understanding and vision of how David works.

What is your favourite cloth to work with? Why?

My favourite cloth to work with is tweed because of its weight. It can be structured well and it holds its shape. I love British woven cloth because it is a representation of our heritage and history as well.

 What is the most important part of your day? 

Each day is different, but I think the most important part of my day is organising myself. Having a clear understanding of what stage I'm at for each coat in order to not repeat steps and be able to do multiple things at the same time to compare canvases and my process. 

What is unique about bespoke tailoring?

Bespoke tailoring is unique because of the relationships built with the clothes, cloths and most importantly the clients. I always like meeting the clients because it is a lifelong partnership that you form with them. The relationship you build with clients allows you to notice the changes that they go through from how their style changes to how they grow as a person. It’s the most unique experience that bespoke tailoring offers.

What is the most important part of process when it comes to coat making for bespoke tailoring?  

I think the most important part is building a strong canvas. This is the foundation of the garment and the canvas is what gives it its structure. The whole process of creating a strong canvas must be followed with the pressing stage. When you press into the canvas with a heavy-weight iron, then the canvas holds its structure and it lasts a long time. It almost feels like you are forming a human into the cloth. That’s how I vision it to create a garment that will fit the client perfectly.